Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - 55inchwheel

Pages: [1] 2
I'm not quite sure what the acronym F/S means so I looked it up in the urban dictionary and found these possible choices:

Acronym Definition

F/S Full-size
F/S Full Service
F/S Financial Statement
F/S File Server
F/S Farside (public transit)
F/S Feasibility Study
F/S Frames per Second
F/S Feet per Second
F/S Frontside (extreme sports)
F/S Factory Sealed
F/S Flight Sergeant
F/S Frozen Section (histology)
F/S Fridge/Stove (rental listings)
F/S Frequency/Severity
F/S Female Spayed
F/S Folded Shirt (band)
F/S For Sale 

General discussions on Wheelmen topics. / Re: Elliott Hickory
« on: September 11, 2018, 01:42:35 PM »
You lucky dog! What a great and beautiful bike. You'll come up with a seat to match if you are patient! :)

I can't help but wonder the caliber of the pistol. A six shooter would come in handy when being chased by vicious dogs!

General discussions on Wheelmen topics. / Re: Overman Unicycle
« on: September 02, 2018, 09:46:50 PM »
I agree with others who think this might be a 'one-off', cleverly built using vintage pieces with good workmanship.
Being a unicycle rider myself I know a lot of history on them.  The first thing I noticed is the seat. Commercially built unicycles didn't use a wide saddle, the leg chaffing and inability to use the 'horn' for for-aft balancing (because it isn't on this seat) rules out this style seat for use on a unicycle.  From the very first unicycle the seat always rose up in back and in front of the center section.
Tony  :)

these tires are labeled by their outside diameter, not the size of the rim. (If using a premade semi-pneumatic tire it is installed by soaking it in very hot water.) The original tire style can be replaced with a wire core tire just like replacing a tire on a highwheel using the tire rubber of the size that best fits the rim (Greg Barron sells most sizes.)
Tony :)

these tires were used prior to the war but continued into the early 1950. Here is an example for sale on eBay:

Richard, you SHOULD BE ABLE to modify your own posts, after some one responds to my post I can no longer edit or modify it.

Your post where you tell us we can modify our posts now has you locked out of modifying it because I responded. Interesting and weird.
Tony  :)

you're a funny guy David. I wish I had what you need!

In our neighborhood we can't have cocks, they are too noisy, but many of us have up to the limit of five hens. One neighbor has five new 3 week old chicks and she thinks one is a cock, the first time it crows she will be looking for its new home out in the country.

I see the inability to edit posts on this board has 'bitten' another Wheelman!
This post title reads "COCK GRIP"  which I'm sure is a mistype, probably should be "CORK GRIP", I bet David saw that as soon as he clicked "post" but it was too late to change and on this new board we don't have the ability to edit. What is written is destined to stay forever!
I think of this limitation as "one step forward and two steps back".

Dave, here is a link to the tool I mentioned, the price varies a lot between $12 plus shipping to $30 depending on where you buy them. One review said they work good all the way up to 1/8" wire. Wow, that is thick wire ! ! !
Tony  :)

Dave, I can't help with the spokes but I have seen the tool that makes that double-right-angle bend at a hardware store, it was about $20, I almost bought one, good tool to have around in the shop.

Do you have a photo of the hub that receives these spokes?
Tony  :)

General discussions on Wheelmen topics. / Re: Early pedal photo
« on: August 15, 2018, 10:25:10 AM »
John, a jpg is a smaller more compressed file when compare to a tif. However the tif worked fine and looks good on my end.
Tony  :)

Ed, I'm located just over the hill and through the woods on your way to Grandmama's place, in Duluth, Minnesota at the western tip of Lake Superior 150 miles north of Minneapolis. Not close enough probably. But pretty close to the semi-annual Mackinac Island meet which I'll have to miss for the first time in 10 years because the 2019 date has been moved to August after my kids go back to school. (dang it)
Tony  :)

I tried to attach two photo, only the second one worked, I'll try again.
by the way, does anyone know how to edit your own post?

ED, I feel your pain! I'm very experienced with the model A, I have rebuilt many (new balls, etc.) They brake 'friction' surface wore quickly and there wasn't a remedy supplied by ND. New brake shoes added some life but they aren't available any longer. I have heard of some guys having 'flame sprayed' a new brake surface inside the big end of the hub.

Back to your question, no, everything in the diagram is needed but another nut isn't needed if the parts are assembled and tightened properly. Mind you, this isn't a good brake but for careful riding it works fine. I added a modern day 'caliper' brake to the front wheel on mine and I use the Model A only for forward motion.

If you have all the pieces shown in the attached diagram you have what you need. This is one of those situation where I say: "I wish I had that wheel here and I bet I could fix it!"

Pages: [1] 2