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Messages - Kurt S.

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16
Currently researching the "Maryland Bicycle Club" of Baltimore Maryland.

Needing any images of these bicyclists to help identify them in a club photo.

Also needing any club rosters. ( I have added a PDF attachment of what I could put together as a club Roster for 1882-83) >>>>Roster image attached updated 3-3-19

Also needed is an example image of the "Maryland Bicycle Club" badge. 

Would also like an image of one other club's badge, the "Baltimore Bicycle club".



My most sincere and grateful thanks, Kurt Schaak

kurtschaak@yahoo.com

17
Looking to acquire a single pedal for an 1891 Victor hard tire safety.

"WE FOUND ONE; Thank you"


18
I had found a seller a while back that has on ebay some tires that might work.  Has some of those smaller sizes in Black.

the attached chart is some of what he has , look at the "fit Rim O.D. " column,  see if they fit.



https://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_ssn=abigjoy

Black 8.5/14/16/20/24/26" Bike Solid Tires Electric Bicycle Tubeless Tyre

19
I thought I’d chime in again because with either the 9 & 10 gauge there is an issue of the joint.  If you try to just simply overlap the wires and braze it, or if a twist method is used, it is too big for the center of the rubber tire.  This sets up unnecessary stress in the rubber as that type of joint is pushing through the rubber tire on every turn. 


The wire that I purchased, I assume has already been annealed, so brazing it properly shouldn’t be an issue.  Annealing takes out the stresses in the wire, and brazing at around 850F and then quenching it in water will toughen the materials (tempering), which is what I want at the joint.  If anything, I want some pliability/toughness at the brazed joint. 

  This is different than heating it up to cherry red, which can create stresses, which can then create snapped wires.

  Now I use a 9 or 10 gauge, high tensile wire on my bicycle and took extra measures to insure an excellent joint.  While in the tiring machine, and just before brazing, I trimmed off the wires to overlap about 5/8”. Then with a small grinder and cut off wheel, I bevel cut the wires so that each cut of the two wires would oppose the other, creating cylindrical wedge(s).  When the two wire cut wedges are laid onto each other, they form a cylindrical round, very close to the original diameter of the wire. 

  The joint I then braze together and quench in water.

  Just how I do it, when it comes to those wires, I like to pack my own parachute. 

20
I hope this can shed some light on the wire issue,  notice in the chart, for example,  the difference in a low carbon - 10 gauge wire @ a breaking point of 1101 Lbs, verses, a high carbon wire - high tensile 10 gauge which has a breaking point of 2860 Lbs.  Roughly 2 1/2 times stronger - same gauge.

If the well meaning folks whom installed the wire, simply bought the wire from their local hardware store, they probably ended up with low carbon wire.  Get some from a supplier that can provide the specs of it being actual "High Tensile Wire". 

Then again, that 9 gauge wire from Home depot does the trick, it's just a bugger to push it through, even with a wire lubricant. 

21
I believe that serial number would have it manufactured in 1889.

22
Here are a couple of photos of the crank.

23
Just to clarify, this pedal does not thread into the crank arm, and does not have flat cut on the boss that engages the crank arm mounting holes.

The crank arm holes are circular cut at .562 inches dia.

The circular boss length prior to where the threading begins is approx 3/8" long (thickness of crank is 3/8").

The threaded portion beyond the boss/crank arm is 1/2 x 20 tpi.

Thanks again, Kurt

 

24
Wanted, a Bicycle pedal for a safety bicycle circa 1892.

Still looking for one of these pedals for the Lozier & Yost.

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